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Greece – Pireas and Plaka – Backpacking Europe
So Here’s the Deal
Following an amazing stay in Montespertoli doing all things Tuscany, the last leg of the trip was to be in Athens. Greece is mostly known for its luxurious islands, such as Santorini and Mykonos. However, I focused my stay in Greece on the mainland, most notably around the plaka district. The city is a mix of modern society and ancient Greek ruins coinciding with one another. These old monuments overlook the rest of the city, and are the natural focal points that make Athens unique.
Overall, I did some serious walking around Athens and its suburbs, experiencing both sides of the coin.
Grand Entrance
Upon arriving, I took an evening train to Syntagma Square, where taking the stairs to the surface, I was immediately welcomed by a protest. People were yelling and riot police formed a line outside the Parliament building.
Welcome to Athens.
I didn’t stay for too long before making my way to the Student and Traveller Inn Hostel, which was really rad. Located smack dab in the middle of plaka, the hostel was walking distance to all the points of interest. Everyone at the hostel was friendly and we went out as a group almost every night after. Oh, and I also learned that night that some of my roommates got collateral damage from the tear gas at the square earlier in the day. Crazy!
Pireus
Without getting into depth, Greece’s financial crisis has left the country with many challenges still to face. The effects are still clear not too long after leaving the more tourist concentrated areas. Therefore, I’m going to start with the not-so-good before ending with the better stuff.
I decided to take the subway and check out Pireus to see the 2004 Summer Olympic grounds. Though the port city of Pireus is usually tied in with Athens, it is a much different experience in itself. For starters, I think the only reason you’d really be here is to catch a cruise to the Greek islands. Otherwise, it’s a ghost town. I walked around for most of the day and was equally surprised and curious at what I observed.
Bring Euros!
Outside of Plaka, some stores and transportation don't accept credit cards. Save yourself the hassle.
First, the city “style” is roughly the same as Athens. But once you get down into the street alleys, food cart and textile vendors are everywhere, curbside trash is more prevalent and there are A LOT of outdoor/stray cats and dogs. I’m serious about the strays, people – concerningly high numbers.
The Olympic grounds are unfortunately not in a whole lot better condition. It feels like they are just left to erode over time – which is actually not too different than some other host cities. Graffiti was pretty prominent, too. Some murals were more artistic than others, but it was overbearing when everywhere you looked, something was tagged.
So, that’s Pireus! Now onward to less critical writing…
Plaka
The fun starts and ends in Plaka! After getting a good picture of where not to go, most of us from the hostel spent the next day in and around this district eating, drinking and… well ya, basically that. In defense, the World Cup games were on during this time, so all the people were packed in plaka’s squares to cheer on their teams and enjoy the Greek cuisine.
Morning Cuisine Routine
I can't find the place on google maps, but there was this Gyro cafe right down the alley from the hostel that served up double souvlaki gyros and a macchiato at a steal. Best way to start the day.
I consider Plaka to be in the heart of Athens – between Acorpoli (where the Parthenon is) and Mount Lycabettus. Both of these points are within walking distance, and well illuminated at night for photography 24/7. This is where all the things happen.
Ok, so I almost forgot to mention to that during this entire trip we were really fortunate with the weather. However, Athens let loose a few times, but it’s nothing this Florida boy can’t handle. I spent one afternoon attempting to get some shots of the Parthenon from Filopappou Hill before Zues started slinging YUUUJE lightning bolts. Needless to say, that didn’t last long. But at least I got to try out the waterproof jacket!
Athens Nightlife
Ah, yes, the nightlife in Athens. What is there to do Michael? To which I’d respond, start in Plaka, get yourself a litre of wine, go to a world’s top 10 bar and/or a club, and attempt to make it back to a hostel in Plaka. And yes, you can purchase some “local?” wine straight from the plastic bottle. Make sure to recycle 🙂
Sound good? Good. Anyways, as mentioned before, World Cup games were in full force, so most of the hostel crew spent the nights at a sports bar before continuing on afterwards. At night, the white cobblestone alleys in plaka become bright from the overhead strands of lights. Outside restaurant seating is everywhere and the shops are full with customers. The energy is alive in this little district and I lost track of time more than once simply being caught up in the action.
Plaka Gelato Trap
I thought Italy was bad, this place had a higher concentration of gelato shops per 100 meter radius. Try resisting that after a late night out!
Here were some places I checked out:
- Athens Sports Bar – this was the go-to spot for all the World Cup games. It was awesome seeing so many people from around the world packed in this bar!
- Brettos Plaka – really more of a liquor shop, but I’d go there for the ambiance and location by itself.
- The Clumsies – World’s top 10 bar with classy cocktails and a secret menu to boot! I had their Viking Wine (mead) and Espresso Martini. 10/10.
That’s it for now – catch ya next post where I massively miscalculate a hike to the highest spot in Athens!
Recap of Places
- Pireus – I’ve said enough
- Plaka – when in Athens, this is the most lively area
- Syntagma Square – transportation hub
- Athens Sports Bar – where we all came together for the World Cup games
- Brettos Plaka – large selection of liquors
- The Clumsies – worth spending some time here!
Michael Lakus
IT professional, athlete, musician, ponderer of many things... Born and raised in Florida, I began traveling internationally after college. I created this site primarily to remind myself of where I've been and to share my experiences on traveling with a quirky, stress-free, travel attitude.
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